Hampta Pass Diary – Chapter-5 : Trekking through the snow and Hampta pass crossing

Hampta Pass Diary – Chapter-5 : Trekking through the snow and Hampta pass crossing

25-June-2025 - Balu ka Ghera to Shea Goru - 3933 m. (12904 ft)

 

The Morning of the Trek

The alarm went off around 4 a.m., waking me from sleep. The heavy rain had stopped, but a light drizzle continued. I stepped out to answer nature’s call and then returned to the tent to wake up a few fellow trekkers who had asked me to do so. The drizzle slowly began to fade, and soon tea was ready, as others also started waking up. I sipped my tea, enjoying the dim early morning light and the crisp chill in the air.

As breakfast time approached, the camp buzzed with activity. We were instructed to have our tiffins (lunch boxes) packed by the end of breakfast, so we made sure to get that done. Once everyone had eaten and lunch was packed, we were told to get ready for the day’s trek and assemble at the designated area. Just as we started prepping, it began to rain again. My wife and I put on our rain ponchos—essentially large plastic sheets without sleeves, covering us down to below the knees, including our rucksacks.

We were scheduled to leave early that day. The plan was to climb up to Hampta Pass through snow and then descend to the next campsite—a longer and more challenging route. The weather had already shown signs of turning overnight, so an early start was crucial to avoid getting caught in worse conditions.

We were also informed that six members from our group of eleven were returning back and would leave slightly later than us. Once we had gathered in the assembly area, our guide gave a quick briefing about the Hampta Pass, the route ahead, and expected weather conditions. We wrapped it up by singing the national anthem and bidding farewell to those heading back.

Slippery Slopes and Helping Hands

We began our trek in a single-file line, descending from the hillside toward the plains where other campsites were located, near the river. Due to the rain overnight and ongoing drizzle, the trail was slippery, requiring extra caution. The walking stick we had bought from a lady at the base camp proved incredibly useful on the treacherous descent.

One lady in our group didn’t have a stick and struggled with the slippery path, so I offered her my hand and helped her climb down safely. Once we all reached the bottom, our guide had us wait until everyone had caught up. Our total group strength had now reduced to 28, as six trekkers and Mr. Jovi had departed.

Plains, Climbing, and Rain Again

Once we regrouped, we resumed walking along the plain, river-sand-covered trail. Technically, this was more of a walk than a trek, but it was still part of the overall journey. The rain had mostly stopped, and the sun began to peek through the clouds, bringing a touch of warmth. Many of us, including myself and my wife, took off our rain gear and packed it away.

On the river plain after climbing down from Balu-ka-Ghera camp

But as soon as the plains ended, the ascent resumed. We came across a water stream at the base and took a sip. Looking across the valley, we noticed clouds rolling in from the Chikka side—where we had come from the day before. Roughly an hour and a half into the climb, the weather changed again. Rain started, and we had to put our ponchos back on.

First Encounter with Snow

About an hour later, we encountered our first patch of snow. It was an exciting moment for everyone. Despite the steady drizzle and light rain, spirits were high. However, the trail soon turned into a stretch of snow-covered terrain. The conditions became tougher—cloudy skies, strong wind, low visibility (sometimes down to 15-20 feet), and bitter cold. Many of us began to show signs of early frostbite, with fingers turning red or purplish.

Start of the snow trek

But we had been warned—this was a winter trek. Snow was expected, and mountain weather could change at any moment. We were now living that reality.

The snow – Upwards and onwards – with low visibility

After trekking on the snow for about an hour, we reached a point where the trail returned to rocky terrain. Unfortunately, it was still raining and windy, so breaks were few and difficult. The rocky path required even more focus—wet, unstable, and slippery.

Lessons in Gear

While the poncho did a great job covering both my body and my rucksack, it became a hindrance on the steep climb. When I had to take longer steps to place my foot on higher rocks, the poncho got in the way. There was a real risk of stepping on it and slipping. Mr. Dilip, one of our group members, noticed this and showed me his slightly shorter poncho. He pointed out that while it didn’t protect his shoes from getting wet, it was much safer and more practical for such climbs.

Later, Mr. Vikram also mentioned that a good-quality raincoat paired with a waterproof cover for the backpack would be a better setup. He and his wife were using that combination and found it more convenient and safer.

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Introducing Mr. Dilip Prabhu and Ms. Smita

Mr. Dilip Prabhu—fondly known as "Prabhu ji"—and Ms. Smita were from Mumbai and seasoned trekkers. Though Mr. Dilip had taken a break from trekking in recent years, he had a rich history of treks behind him. Ms. Smita, in her 40s, had planned this trek but didn’t have company. She reached out to Mr. Dilip, and he happily agreed to join her. Though not related by blood, they shared a sibling-like bond.

Mr. Dilip, likely in his late 60s or early 70s, preferred to stay with fellow seniors Mr. Suman and Mr. Tek Chand. I often greeted them with a cheerful "All good?" whenever I passed them on the trail. I also shared similar quick check-ins with Mr. Vikram, Dr. Jayesh, and Mr. Jovi (until he had to leave the group).

 

Via Hampa pass - 4280 m. (14042 ft)

 

Crossing Hampta Pass and Reaching Shea Goru

By the time we crossed Hampta Pass, it was already afternoon. The pass itself was barely visible—shrouded in rain, clouds, and mist. Everyone was exhausted, cold, and hungry. But there was nowhere to sit, and the rain hadn’t let up.

After the pass, the trail continued with a series of climbs and descents. We came across some guides sitting under large rocks, taking shelter from the rain and eating lunch. They encouraged us to eat too, but without any dry place to sit, we just took a short break and moved on.

By now, we were all running low on water. There had been no water streams since we began the snow climb, and the thirst was really setting in. As we moved forward and gradually descended, the landscape began to change. We had now officially crossed into Spiti Valley—vastly drier than the rain-drenched Kullu Valley we had left behind. Eventually, the rain also stopped.

After navigating a few more ups and downs, we reached a spot where all five of us from our smaller group had gathered. We finally had our lunch, albeit very late, and finished off whatever little water we had left. Then we pressed on.

The Steep Descent to the Plains

The trail now led us downhill—and this time, it was steep, almost vertical in places. From above, we could clearly see the flatlands below, where a river meandered across the valley. Climbing down might seem easier, but it’s often riskier—especially here. Rainwater from higher up had mixed with loose rocks and stones, turning the trail slippery and unstable.

Leaving the snow and the rain behind

We had to be extra cautious to avoid dislodging rocks, which could roll down and injure those below. After a couple of hours of this tense descent, we finally reached the bottom. The last patch of snow was crossed by sliding down with the help of our guides and a man we thought was the camp leader. Later, we learned he wasn’t actually the camp leader but someone who had left the base camp with the first batch and stopped at the third campsite on instructions, never reaching the fourth camp.

During the descent, we also found out that Mr. Suman had slipped and injured himself, and Mr. Dilip (Prabhu ji) was experiencing some discomfort too.

Arrival at Shea Goru

At the end of the climbing down, there was a last stretch of snow, which we had to cross – by sliding through it - once we finished the snow slide, about 8–10 group members continued walking toward the Shea Goru campsite. Thankfully, it was the first site we encountered after reaching the plains, nestled near the river.

The snow slide

We were welcomed by the camp leader and assigned our tents. In our group, there were three men—myself, my cousin, and his nephew. The cousin and nephew were assigned one tent, and I was placed in another. My cousin asked the leader if we could all be in the same tent, but the request was declined. It didn’t really bother me, so I let it be.

I entered the tent, dropped my rucksack and stick, removed my shoes, socks, and rain gear, slipped on my Crocs, and stepped back outside. Soon, Prabhu ji (Mr. Dilip) arrived and was assigned to the same tent. A little later, a third person (whose name I can’t recall) joined us, taking the far end of the tent. As always, I took the spot near the entrance.

Camp Routine and Check-ups

We were called to assemble in the open central area. I checked in with Mr. Suman and asked how he was doing. He said he was fine, although his injury looked serious. Thankfully, Dr. Jayesh had treated him as best he could with the limited resources at hand.

This campsite was well-organized—set up on a level patch of land with tents arranged in a square, and a stone-lined boundary marking the perimeter. One of the “special four” members (those who fancied themselves pros) was still asleep and was asked to join the group.

The Shea Goru camp site

(The Red top tents were set by our trek organization, and the rest of tents belonged to other organizations)

Once everyone gathered, the camp leader introduced himself and led a round of light exercises. Then we were asked to form two queues—one for men, one for women—for a fun “shoulder massage train,” where each person massaged the shoulders of the one in front. Unsurprisingly, the “special four” added their own cheeky twist to it. I happened to be giving a shoulder massage to one of them.

The relaxing warm-up and massage

Afterward, the leader shared details about tea time, dinner, and the next day’s schedule.

Health Checks and Evening Tea

Following the routine, the camp leader checked the oxygen levels of two members—one of the “special” guys who had gone back to sleep and a female trekker, Ms. Deepa, who wasn’t feeling well. Both were given oxygen support from the cylinder.

He asked the group if anyone else felt unwell. A few people spoke up, and their vitals were checked. I, too, wasn’t feeling fully okay—my fingers were still dark brown from the cold. I asked him to check my oxygen level. He didn't share the number but assured me I was fine.

As the sun began to set, the last rays lit up the snow-covered peaks near Hampta Pass. A few of us took photos. Mr. Vikram, with his DSLR, captured some nice shots.

The golden snow peaks from the camp site

Soon, tea was served, followed by soup. We sat on the boundary stones, sipping and chatting. We discussed how fortunate it was that the other six members of our group had returned from Balu Ka Ghera, as the day had been exceptionally tough. We only understood this much based on our experience—but once we returned to base camp, we’d find out just how fortunate they were.

Some of us had soup; some skipped it.

Dinner, Winding Down, and Sleep

Light faded quickly, and dinner was served. I didn’t feel hungry—perhaps due to the late lunch or the physical exhaustion—but I knew I had to eat something, so I forced down what I could.

After dinner, everyone returned to their tents. My wife and I had been sharing washing duties, as the water was freezing, so we were using as few utensils as possible. I cleaned the ones we used, took care of nature’s call, and returned to my tent.

There were only three of us, so space wasn’t an issue anymore. I turned on my torch. At that time, it was just Prabhu ji and me—the third guy was likely with friends in another tent. We repacked and reshuffled our rucksacks, preparing for the next day. Eventually, the third person returned. Around 9 p.m., we all went to sleep.

For me, it was another night of intermittent sleep and short naps—but the extra space meant I didn’t have to worry about disturbing anyone on either side.