Hampta Pass Diary – Chapter-7 : Chandrataal - The beautiful origin of Chandra river

 

Hampta Pass Diary – Chapter-7 : Chandrataal - The beautiful origin of Chandra river

 

Chandrataal Lake Visit and Return Journey

27-June-2025 - Chhatru to Chandrataal - 4278 m. (14035 ft)

It was yet another repeat of the previous few nights—I woke up right as my alarm rang around 4 a.m. After some partial stargazing—or rather sky gazing—I eased into the daily routine. Soon, others began to stir as well. We had to move early to avoid the rush at Chandrataal (AKA Chandartaal) Lake and return on time.

The early morning light

Before we realized, tea was ready, and we were asked to pack our rucksacks and leave them in a designated tent. Only essentials—water bottles, raincoats, umbrellas, snacks, etc.—were to be carried for the Chandrataal visit. Breakfast was simple—Maggi noodles—and as soon as it was ready, everyone dug in. After breakfast, we packed the rest of our belongings into small bags or pouches and stashed our main rucksacks in the storage tent, as we had to vacate our sleeping tents for the next group.

We had four vehicles for the journey: one Tempo Traveller and three SUVs (like Toofan or Sumo), though these were different from the ones that had dropped us off at Jobra. As expected, there was the usual scramble for seats, but this time the group was smaller, and the vehicles had enough space for everyone to sit comfortably.

The five of us were ready and looked for seats together. The Tempo Traveller was nearly full, and two SUVs already had a few passengers, but we found one SUV completely empty and claimed it. This time, there was no segregation—everyone sat together, regardless of gender. The driver and one of the guides arrived soon after. The driver noticed we were already seated, coordinated quickly with the other drivers and the guide, and then took the wheel. We were the first to leave the camp, and our driver maintained a steady, cautious pace.

We crossed a bridge over the Chandra River and passed the Chhatru market—which, as mentioned earlier, was just a cluster of local snack stalls or makeshift tented hotels. A few kilometers down the road, the Tempo Traveller and another SUV overtook us. The road wasn’t really a “road”—just a flattened patch of earth, roughened by frequent traffic and rains. Still, the ride was scenic and peaceful. All around us was nature in its raw beauty: towering mountains, snow-capped peaks, the flowing Chandra River, the vast plains of the Spiti Valley, and small waterfalls cascading beside the road.

Eventually, the last SUV overtook us too, but it slowed down ahead and the driver signaled ours to pick up the pace. Our driver obliged, but still kept it safe—not like the others who were driving a bit recklessly.

Despite the bumpy ride, the scenery made it all worthwhile. About an hour after leaving Chhatru, we reached a checkpoint near another iron bridge. The Tempo Traveller had stopped there, and a few people were having tea and snacks. We continued on, crossing the bridge. From there, the road narrowed considerably—mountains loomed on one side, and a deep valley with the Chandra River flowed on the other. The track remained rough, with sharp bends, inclines, and the occasional stream to cross. We saw a mix of vehicles heading both ways and many bikers navigating the route. A few bikes even slipped while crossing a water stream, due to the large rocks and strong current—but thankfully, no one was hurt.

The Chandra river and the road to Chandrataal lake

After another hour to an hour and a half, we reached the entry point to Chandrataal, where the other SUVs were waiting. Visitors had to purchase entry tickets—₹200 per person. Our guide and driver were exempt. The fee was collected by the Forest Department, as this area falls within a protected forest sanctuary. They also reminded us to avoid littering, especially plastics.

Another 20–25 minutes’ drive brought us to the Chandrataal parking area. Along the way, we passed multiple camping sites, including a massive camp city with over 100 tents, offering overnight stays near the lake.

The tent city near the Chandrataal lake

When we arrived, around 30–40 vehicles were already parked. From there, it was a 2–3 km walk/trek to the lake. The surroundings were breathtaking—pure, unspoiled nature. And then, there it was—Chandrataal Lake. It’s hard to put into words how beautiful it is. But it’s not just the lake—the entire trek leading up to it is a visual treat. The lake water was crystal-clear, with a stunning light blue-green hue. We clicked a few photos and began climbing a small hill beside the lake. The weather was sunny and warm, and though the climb was tiring, it was absolutely worth it.

The 360 degree scenic view - Near the Chandrataal lake

 

At Chandrataal Lake

The beauty itself

Our cousin-nephew and Mahi joined us for part of the climb, stopping midway for photos. We pushed ahead to the top, and the view from there was magnificent—on one side, the lake and the surrounding peaks; on the other, vast plains, a water reservoir, and snow-capped mountains in the distance. The entire scene was mesmerizing.

The view of the other side from the top

 

The view of the Chandrataal lake from the top

 

The grass, the water, the mountain and the sun

A group photo session for our batch had been scheduled at 10 a.m. by the lake, so we climbed down just in time. When we arrived, individual photos were already being taken with the group banner, followed by some couple shots and finally group photos.

After all that, we began our walk back.

But one thing left a bitter aftertaste—the pollution. People had thrown garbage near the lake, some were bathing in it, others were tossing stones into the water just for fun. It was disheartening to see such disregard for a place so naturally pristine. One can only wonder—when will we learn to just be, and simply coexist without leaving a mess behind?

 

Return Journey: Chandrataal to Chhatru (3,317 m / 10,883 ft)

Once we were back at the parking area, we waited a few minutes for our driver and the rest of the group to return. By then, it was already 10:30 a.m., and more vehicles and people were arriving at the lake. With the sun fully out, it was getting quite hot.

As we began our return journey, we encountered traffic jams at several points along the way. We made the most of these stops by taking photos through the vehicle windows. While the driver remained cautious, he wasn’t as careful as he had been on the way to Chandrataal. Between the bumpy ride and the dusty trail, by the time we reached back in a couple of hours, we were quite literally coated in a fine layer of golden dust—sparkling particles covering our clothes and skin. It was especially noticeable for the two of us sitting in the back seats—my nephew and me.

The path that awarded us with shiny golden skin & clothes

The Sheep and the Shepherd

 

From Chhatru to Seobagh Base Camp (1,397 m / 4,583 ft)

By the time we reached Chhatru, a couple of members from the Shea Goru group had already arrived. They were surprisingly early—perhaps they didn’t take as many breaks as we did. Lunch was ready, and as each vehicle arrived, everyone was asked to eat, collect their rucksacks, and reboard their vehicles.

We finished our lunch, but when we returned to our vehicle, Mr. Suman ji and Mr. Tek Chand ji were already seated inside. When we asked them about it, they explained that someone had taken their spots in the Tempo Traveller (TT), so they had shifted to our SUV instead. None of us five liked that situation. We went to the TT and asked the guides for help, but there was no resolution. Eventually, we decided to adjust: my wife and I would move to a different SUV—the one where two members had shifted into the TT—and my cousin, his wife, and our nephew would stay in the original SUV.

Soon, all the vehicles started the journey back to the Seobagh base camp via the Atal Tunnel. It didn’t take long to understand why those two members had switched vehicles—they had clearly wanted to escape the reckless driver of the SUV we had just entered. My wife and I were seated in the back, and we were practically airborne half the time. The road was still rough, and the driver showed little regard for comfort or caution.

Telling good bye to Chhatru and the Spiti valley

 

From dry to the green valley

After about 45–50 minutes of this jarring ride, we finally hit the highway, which was relatively smoother. But even then, the driver’s rough style didn’t change. We passed through the Atal Tunnel, and noticed that it had started raining on this side—while the Spiti Valley side remained dry. We took a short break soon after exiting the tunnel because a few members wanted to make Instagram reels or go live on social media (they’d been doing this throughout the trip—even hanging halfway out of the SUV windows at times. That’s how intense the social media craze was!).

Finally on a pukka road

 

The unique houses on the way to Manali

 

The Atal tunnel

As we approached Manali, the traffic began to build up, and we encountered frequent jams. Eventually, we crossed Manali and continued towards Seobagh via the Kullu–Manali national highway. On the way, we saw several adventure activities—hot air balloons and more.

Just a view from the road

We finally reached the base camp around 4:30 p.m., with only one SUV having arrived before us.

 

Evening at Base Camp & Certificate Distribution

Some of our family members—who were scheduled to return that day—were already there. We took the same tent, had some relaxed conversations, and then went for tea. As the rest of our group returned, we listened to their experience—which I’ll describe in the next section—and it was quite concerning.

Other vehicles began arriving gradually. As soon as we received our membership cards, we collected our luggage, returned our rucksacks and inner sleeping bags, and completed the formalities.

By then, evening had set in and some members had already started leaving. We said our goodbyes. Soon it was time for dinner, and we were informed that the certificate distribution would happen right after.

There was also a surprise—Dr. Jayesh’s wedding anniversary! Mr. Aditya and Mr. Suchith had secretly arranged for a cake, so we had the certificate distribution first, followed immediately by cake cutting and celebration.

During the celebration, we also found out that the next two trekking batches had been merged into one—with only five members in total. (The reason for this is explained in the next sections.)

It was already past 8:00 or 8:30 p.m., and more members began leaving. We said our final goodbyes and returned to our tents. We had already booked our return bus from Kullu for 11:30 a.m. the next day and settled in for the night.

 

Travel plans

Only six of us were returning together—my wife and I, my cousin and his wife, our nephew, and our younger uncle. The uncle-aunt and their daughter had a train to catch from Delhi, so they left separately. My other cousin (the son of my younger uncle) had gone to visit a friend, as he didn’t want to just wait at the base camp. He had already left the day after we returned and was planning to reach home on his own. Since he had been to Delhi multiple times before, my uncle was confident he could manage it without issue.