Hampta Pass Diary – A river crossing on a sunny day and the climb down to Chandra river
26-June-2025 - Shea Goru to Chhatru - 3317 m. (10883 ft)
Early Morning at Shea Goru
My
alarm went off, and I woke up to darkness. The camp was quiet, no one else
outside yet. I stepped out to take care of nature’s call. A little later, Mr.
Vikram joined me, and we had a brief chat as the camp slowly came to life.
Soon,
tea was ready. As requested, I informed my tentmates so they could wake up and
join in. After tea, breakfast was served. I felt good that morning—refreshed
and more energetic—so I thoroughly enjoyed both tea and breakfast. While I
cleaned our utensils, my wife packed our lunch.
We
were then asked to assemble on the ground—without wearing shoes or socks.
From camp site towards the Hampta pass side - Snow peaks on the
sunny morning
(As seen from Shea-Goru camp site towards the Hampta pass)
From camp site towards the Chhatru side - View of semi-arid
terrain on the sunny morning
(As seen from Shea-Goru camp site towards the Chhatru camp site, where we’re going today)
The time-lapse of the sunset lighting up our day at Shea Goru
River Crossing Instructions & Execution
The
camp leader checked in with the group: “Is anyone feeling unwell?” Fortunately,
everyone was doing fine. He then briefed us on the day’s route and explained
our first task—crossing the river.
Time
was crucial. In the dry, sunny Spiti valley, snowmelt increases as the day
progresses, swelling river currents and making crossings more difficult.
We
were shown how to form a human chain—this time by locking elbows instead of
holding hands. We were instructed to take small, steady steps, face the flow of
water, avoid rushing, and most importantly, not to stop midway. After singing
the national anthem, we approached the river.
Shoes,
socks, and sandals came off. Everyone lined up side by side, linking elbows. As
we moved slowly into the water, things were going smoothly—until Mr. Uday, who
was to my wife’s right, lost his balance midway. It was a tense moment.
Ironically,
while the guides had demonstrated how to cross slowly, one of them—already
across—began urging everyone to hurry. That contradiction caused confusion, and
some of us had to shout back, urging people to slow down and maintain a steady
pace.
Though
we managed to cross without major issues, it wasn’t a pleasant experience for
my wife.
Afterward,
we dried off and put our socks and shoes back on. Two guides recrossed the
river to retrieve luggage they had forgotten. Compared to our previous river
crossing, this one was wider and on flat terrain, though both were exciting in
their own ways.
The Plains Walk and Group Dynamics
We
began walking across the plains. Some of us set off early, and we noticed the
four “special” members had already gone ahead. When asked, someone mentioned
they needed to leave early to return to base camp.
About
500–600 meters in, we were asked to pause and wait for the rest of the group to
catch up. Once everyone regrouped, we resumed walking. The trail was mostly
flat initially, but it slowly narrowed as we entered a valley, with the river
on one side and mountains on the other. As we trekked, the river flowed far
below us—we’d eventually have to descend to that level.
After
an hour, we reached a scenic rest stop where the guides suggested we take
another break. We later learned this delay was intentional—the day's trek was
short and easy, and the next campsite at Chhatru might not be ready if we
arrived too early.
Everyone
rested, snacked, and then the usual photography and videography began. The
views were stunning. Some members took the opportunity to record reels and
creative poses, while the guides gently nudged them to move on.
Group Issues and Delays
During
the break, it was also shared that the "special" four had gone ahead
partly because of their experience the previous day. They’d arrived too early
at Shea Goru, without the group leader or guides, and weren’t allowed to enter
the camp since they didn’t have their membership cards.
These
cards, issued at base camp, acted as entry/exit passes and tracked gear
distribution. The cards were held by the guides—so without them, the four
trekkers were denied entry and had to wait for hours. Despite clear
instructions not to separate from the group, they had gone ahead, and now, a
guide had to leave with them, causing inconvenience for the rest of us.
Some
of us—including me—had also unknowingly moved ahead too early after the river
crossing. As a result, the camp leader at Shea Goru had scolded the guides.
There was a feeling among many that the guides were acting more like personal
porters for a few members, but opinions on that varied.
Lagging Behind and Regrouping
About
600–700 meters ahead, our small group paused. The guide began expressing
frustration with members not following instructions. One of those lagging
behind was my cousin’s nephew, who was busy filming reels with others,
completely unaware of the delay they were causing.
There was no mobile network in the area, so shouting was our only option—but they were too far to hear. A shepherd passing by was asked to pass on our message, but that didn’t help either.
Eventually, the guide offered to go back and bring them. My cousin volunteered to go with him, while the rest of us continued on. We reached another water stream where the rest of the group was taking a break. A little later, the missing members arrived, and we resumed our journey after snacks and water.
Final Descent and Challenging Sections
The
path ahead was narrow and rocky. Though dry, loose soil and small stones made
the descent tricky. At one point, we came upon a steep slope from where we
could see the Chandra River and the road to Chhatru on the opposite side of the
valley.
The last descent towards the Spiti valley and the Chandra river
(Towards the right side is Chandartaal and towards the left is the way to Atal tunnel and Manali, also, somewhere the Chandra river ultimately meets other rivers and becomes a part of the Beas river)
There were multiple trails leading downhill, and we had to pick our own. I chose a longer U-shaped mule path, which had some grass and gentler slopes. My wife and others took a shorter but steeper route, which was more slippery.
The narrow path and the downhill trek
The view of the Chhatru camp site from a point while climbing down
(The Chhatru camp site, the Chandra river and the bridge over the river and the road on the opposite side going towards the Chandartaal lake)
Eventually,
we reached a flat area where others were taking a break—it was lunchtime. We
sat down and ate. From this point, the Chhatru campsite was visible, though it
wasn’t clear which one belonged to us.
My
wife and I took a short stroll to explore the view. That side of the valley
connected to Spiti, and the road led to Chhatru. Once everyone was done with
lunch, the guides instructed us to move on.
More Stream Crossings and Snow
Soon,
we had to cross another stream. This time, there wasn’t a clear way to form a
human chain. Large rocks jutted out of the water, and a few members decided to
jump across. Others waited for the guides.
One of
them suggested crossing at a spot with knee-deep water. Mr. Uday went first and
managed fine, but it wasn’t ideal. Eventually, most of us chose to jump over
the larger rocks, with the guide and Mr. Suchith stationed to support us. Shoes
came off again, pants rolled up, and one by one, we made it across.
There
wasn’t enough space on the other side to sit and rest, so we moved on while
others followed.
We soon encountered a snow-covered section—melting and slippery under the sun. One of the guides, who had earlier gone ahead with the four “special” members, returned to help us. With their guidance, we carefully placed our feet in the already-formed footprints and used our sticks for support. Most crossed without incident.
From
there, it was about a kilometer to the Chhatru camp site.
Arrival at Chhatru
We
finally arrived at the Chhatru campsite. The guides showed us our
tent—conveniently near the entrance. Since five of us arrived early, we settled
in with Prabhu ji. Later, Mr. Uday joined us. Then Mr. Suman and Mr. Tek Chand
came, and since they usually stayed with Prabhu ji, we all made space and
welcomed them.
There
was no official camp leader at Chhatru; the group leader Dr. Jayesh, supported
by staff and volunteers, took charge. We were given schedules for tea, soup,
dinner, and the next day’s plans.
After
tea and soup, Mr. Uday went to explore the nearby “Chhatru market”—essentially
4–5 roadside dhabas offering snacks and meals. Later, we suggested he shift to
another tent to avoid crowding, and he graciously agreed.
Inside
our tent, everyone settled in: Mr. Suman near the entrance, Mr. Tek Chand
opposite, Prabhu ji beside Suman, myself beside Tek Chand, my cousin’s nephew
next to me, and my cousin across from him.
Evening at Chhatru
Hearing
about the "market," a few of the ladies—including my wife—decided to
check it out, joined by Mr. Vikram and others. The rest of us stayed behind,
casually reorganizing our gear in the tent.
Later,
our whole group gathered—my cousin, his wife, nephew, and the two of us—and
spent time with Mr. Suman ji, talking about his injury, recovery, and listening
to his stories. He’s a fantastic storyteller—an author and trekker, all in one.
As
dinner was being set up (our tent was right next to the kitchen), we got ready.
The sun was setting, and darkness slowly settled in.
We
had dinner, washed our utensils, and most people retired to their tents. I
stepped out briefly for nature’s call and returned to find everyone resting or
getting ready to sleep.
Some youngsters stayed outside a bit longer, hoping to stargaze—but the sky was partially cloudy. The best stargazing spots would’ve been at Balu Ka Ghera or Shea Goru—had the skies been clear and we had the energy to stay awake.
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